Monday, November 21, 2011

Our Master Bathroom Renovation is Complete


This moment has been almost a year in the making







Bathroom vanity counter is made from bamboo hardwood floor








Look Back at the Entire DIY Bathroom Renovation 
Master Bath Before
My job is creating the design "Master Plan"
This bathroom is narrow so to open it up we will be removing walls and Shower insert
We removed the 1/4 wall to make the shower area larger
I decided on a tile shower and glass wall because Todd can make it look beautiful
We took out the wall, vanity and pedistal sink and will be inserting a custom vanity ( built by Todd)
With double vessel bowls and faucets mounted on the wall
Because of the room being narrow for the floor I chose a versailles pattern to give the look of length


                        

                                                          Start Date December 27th 2010
                                                        Finish Date November 18th 2011

                             (why so long? 4kids NO BABYSITTER...Full Time PRACTICE...DIY)

The greenish yellow shower is now gone
He took out the wall separating the vanity and shower area
Some Drywall tools



Our Little Man Loves to Help
Drywall is one of the DIY projects Todd hates and would highly recommend having it hired out
He Purchased a Do-It yourself drywall book

The shower

Chosen Shower tile from the Tile shop

Getting Ready to Tile
RIDGID Wet Saw Utility Vehicle WS-UV
Highly recomend this tile saw


Bosch tile blade


The Audience


Shower surrounded with Hardiebacker and Todd then screwed up wood trim pieces to hold the tile in place


Most all projects take some beer motivation


First Row


Pro-Flex Platinum Latex Fortified Thinset Mortar
Works great...Consistency of "peanut butter"


Shower Floor


We found a use for painters tape that does not create another project
Use painters tape to hold tiles and spacers in place




The Shower Floor and Bench have heated flooring installed




9" Antique Bell Style Rainfall Shower Faucet purchased from one of our blogs advertisers " efaucets"
Oil rubbed bronze track was drilled into the shower curb and wall


Tiled around the track




Todd numbered each cut tile to complete the exact cut tile pattern
We found painters tape works great for holding the tile and spacers in place



When choosing a paint color I tape the samples on the wall with painters tape and look at them for a week or two before I make a decision


We chose Ashes a medium grey

Remove all interior and exterior trim




Purchased from Lowes
Make sure to get the measurements right...




We used a spray foam to get an air tight seal


Drawing up the design for the window trim





We used wood dowels and glue to hold the trim together




Spray paint Primer dries fast and is quick









Trying to decide on a pattern that would work with our bathroom dimensions. We laid it out first and measured before we started.
The Versailles pattern floor is great for remodeling projects because this tile is very forgiving if your walls are not perfectly square
In most old homes you will find this to be true.



Grout is still wet
Color Choice
Mobe Pearl Sanded



I would Highly recommend this floor! It is a timeless choice!



The pattern for our Versailles floor


Todd won this one with his first choice a Hampton Bay Light from Home Depot
$69.00 ( I think he liked the price)



There was an existing can light in the shower, so we simply just added a new trim piece and it looks new



This was a simple design to build
It just takes time. The benefits to custom design is getting more drawer space. Todd built four short drawers under the sink plumbing. Most of the vanities we looked at did not have that option if you wanted it to be open bottom.
And we could design it to the exact measurements of our bathroom



Shelf for bottom of the vanity. Designed to be removed when cleaning the floors.



Drilling the holes for the plumbing






To glue on the shaker style drawer fronts we used Titebond, air nails,
and then the hardware to complete the support





A few nails for extra support


For the mirror Frame we used Bamboo Hardwood Floor





Once we had decided on the size and got the measurements it was time to cut



Drilled holes for the faucets



Titebond  is the only wood glue Todd will use!





Glue together the seams and clamp till dry




He put silicone around the frame then we set in the mirror



Brackets were used for addition strength to hold the mirror together
While screwing on the brackets the tape Todd used to measure the depth slid and here was the result when we turned the mirror over...Back to step one...




Here we are with the newly made frame. Due to the design of the bathroom we desired to have the mirror up tight to the wall and secure. Todd pre drilled holes and screwed mirror to the studs then made plugs for the holes and used a stain pen to match the color









Faucets are ready to be installed



We Purchased the bowls and Faucets from overstock



  Turn off the water supply at the shutoff valve and plug the drain opening with a rag to keep sewer gases in the pipes
 ( you will know if you forget this step)

 

Wax Ring
The "no-seep" wax ring size will vary with the size of the flange. Be sure to purchase the proper size. A 3-inch neck will fit a 3-inch closet elbow, and a 4-inch neck will fit a 4-inch closet elbow. If the closet elbow is 4 inches and the neck is 3 inches in diameter, purchase a 4×3 reducer. If the flange is positioned below floor level, buy a double-thick ring.





If you're reusing the old flange, replace the 31⁄2-inch flange bolts. Purchase two 31⁄2-inch-long closet bolts. If you're replacing the flange, it must be screwed into a wooden floor. Use self-tapping concrete screws for concrete.





Here Todd is spray painting the on/off valve and the toilet connector
Install the Shut off Valve
Set the valve over the compression ring and draw the nut to it.
Tighten the nut until hand-tight. Use two adjustable wrenches to
tighten until snug - one to hold back the valve and the other to tighten the compression nut.





Place the wax ring on the flange
Set the toilet over the anchor bolts and sit on the toilet, rocking it back and forth to seat the wax ring.
Slip a washer over the closet bolt. With a wrench tighten the nuts against the washer.



Silicone the toilet in place. We put a thin layer on the bottom of the toilet before placing it on the wax ring. Then Todd filled any gaps with a silicone filled syringe



Once we had the toilet installed we realized that after being stored in the garage all winter the flush valve cracked
 so back to the hardware store where we purchased a Toilet Flush Valve Kit